Antiquity Amid the Bustle

Roma. A city like New York, with palpable energy. So different from the country feel of Tuscany. Hoards rush through the streets here with purpose, alongside placid romantics, whose contrasting attitude is more a perennial stroll. Like most of Italy, dinner is enjoyed late into the evening, by which time the hustle is over; one savors the night air, and lights caressing tired, if noble, buildings, and grand sculptured fountains by Bernini powered by aqueduct-driven water. Outdoor dining is often accompanied by a street entertainer performing passionate folk music on violin, or concertina or even saxophone. Rain may be intermittent, but each respite brings the strollers back into the night.

The cuisine has been one discovery after another. First course for dinner is generally a variety of pastas supported by another variety of sauces. Occasionally there's a minestrone or special regional soup. Last night I succumbed to a delicious salad course that included cukes, greens, melon and baby shrimp under a sweet vinegar dressing. Second courses have included the protein of the day: dishes of chicken, beef, pork or seafood. One night we went to the Ghetto area (still so named) and I enjoyed oso buco "Hebrew Style." Of course, there are many pizza opportunities daily, and the number of ways that dish can be presented is staggering. I stick to the popular buffala (buffalo) cheese among my toppings and I'm a happy puppy. Breads in Italy are not so hot. Bland is more accurate, as the locals avoid adding much salt, sugar or taste. I'll compensate when I get back to Paris is a few weeks. Desserts, so I'm told, are phenomenal (and full of butter). But for me there's always sherbets, choice gelato and incredible dark chocolates.

ART AND ARCHITECTURE
Two of my favorite places in Rome on this visit were the Borghese Gallery, for an overdose of art treasures, and the good ol' bloody turf of the Colosseum. The former takes your breath away with the elegance of Renaissance masters; the latter just takes your breath away. The scale of carnage on the acreage of the Colosseum supports its claim as the bloodiest soil on earth. One example is its inaugural celebration in 80 A.D.: 100 continuous days of scheduled "events," where a total of 2,000 humans and 5,000 animals were slaughtered. And that was just the beginning; similar public merriment continued well into the 6th Century.


Pictured here are views of the tunnel system under the main staging area, where gladiators, wild animals and the unfortunate expendables awaited entry into the arena. One can only imagine what was going through those minds. (There's a scene in "Spartacus" that recreates those moments.) Public access to these areas have only become available recently, following extensive excavations. Likewise the uppermost tier of the gallery. It was a new experience at a site I've visited many times.


VATICAN MUSEUM: NOT BAD
If you're seeking the world's largest "private" collection of anything, you want to pay a courtesy visit to the Vatican. The Pontiff won't mind. This time I booked a guided tour of just the "highlights," which took us around two hours. It's estimated that a hit of all the Museum's publicly displayed artifacts and art would take 10 years. And what about the vaults and private library? (I've got Dan Brown in hold.) Just admiring and examining the walls and ornate gilded ceilings of endless hallways ... is dizzying.

We rounded out our three days in Rome with lots of roaming. I can attest that the Spanish Steps have the same number of stairs going up (138) as it does going down (138). And climbing around the ruins of the Roman Forum is as evocative as ever. And the fountains at night rival Paris.

A closing photo: the floor of the Pantheon, the oldest continuously functioning building on earth (over 2,000 years). Most of this beautiful marble floor is original.


I'm now in Naples, and will report on this intense city, unlike anything we've experienced to date, next time.

Location:Naples, Italy