On our return back to the outskirts of Palermo, we spent an evening in a hotel at the edge of the Mediterranean, where the blue sea and crashing waves mesmerized me for a day. Here's a view from my room.
Sophia identified directions to a terrific drivable family-owned restaurant only a town away. The owners catered to us so effectively at lunch that we were compelled to drive back for dinner. Also, their pizza oven was only operational in the evening and I couldn't resist one more opportunity for buffala topping. However, ordering that first meal proved an experience, as neither the waiter nor owner spoke anything but the native tongue. This was a tough negotiation for us, since the menu listed mostly new exotic seafood dishes of questionable origin. One by one, the owner brought out various teenage daughters and other mustached family members to aid in the dialogue, without much communicative success. Our rescuer was a local diner, named Louie. A native Sicilian now residing in New Jersey, Louie deciphered the menu and saved the day. That evening, with NJ Louie nowhere in sight, the owner proudly introduced his night waiter, who even more proudly regaled us with fractured, if charmingly semi-accurate, English. All turned out well, and I don't think I consumed anything that was seriously moving.
A short plane ride from Palermo to Milan, and a shorter hop to Charles de Gaulle Airport, returned us to Paris, where this adventure began a month ago. In the ensuing weeks, summer has definitely concluded. It's now below freezing at night and although relatively dry, snow flurries appear. But what a beautiful time of the year to be in this city of lights. The holiday season is in full display. Last night, the Champs-Elysees was a wonderland of illumination. Each of the hundreds of trees lining the wide boulevard, from the Arc de Triomphe all the way to the Place de la Concorde, was covered with streams of soft white bulbs, some of which would seem to cascade flowing light down their branches as if falling slivers of ice. Really something to stop and appreciate, which we did from one end of this scenic boulevard to the other.
Today we spent the day exploring holiday decorations and street-side shopping. The city has set up a Noel street fair along part of the Champs-Elysee, and the flavor is "tres Internationale" in merchandise and cuisine. Although most of our public transport has been via the outstanding Metro subway system of Paris, we spent about an hour on the city bus system, motoring a final above-ground look at some of the trademark highlights.
A most bizarre way to conclude the visit was a lengthy walking tour through the Pere Lachaise Cemetery, itself a landmark for any number of reasons, principally its residents. Respects were paid to Callas, Piaf, Moliere and Wilde, where crowds still gather. The most popular gravesite remains the remains of Jim Morrison, of The Doors. Although he died here almost 40 years ago, folk of all ages crowd his site with flowers and remembrances. For me, Chopin's site here deserves more lasting reverence, but what do I know?
After a couple of days roaming about Paris, I'm ready for Stateside re-immersion, and will join my family on the east coast for about a week before returning to the Bay Area. It's been a memorable month. Here's a final look at Paris in a typical street scene.
And with that, "a bientot, Paris." The journal is closed.
Location:Paris, France
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