Reflections on Normandy

It's a Monday afternoon in Bayeux, another "Bank Holiday" in France. Between the regular general strikes, typical five weeks of paid vacation and multitudinous federal holidays, it's a wonder anything is accomplished. But everyone seems in good spirits, it being the day after All Saints Day (another holiday?!?) My three days here are over, and I'm railing my way back to Paris for tomorrow's transport to Italy.

There are many experiences to savor in Normandy, including the Bayeux Tapestry exhibit and this charming medieval city itself. But the main event, a gut-wrencher, was the D-Day landing area and surrounding towns integral to the liberation of France.

THOSE WHO SERVED
You study history, and if lucky enough to walk in the steps of the fallen in calmer times, can try to imagine how these events unwound. But there's no way to truly comprehend what these men and women went through beginning in June 1944; how total was the dedication of our citizens towards a united goal for the common good; how unilaterally committed were the thousands of men in those landing parties, dragging gear across 200 yards of beachhead under open enemy bombardment. There are many fine films that eloquently recreate some of this trauma. For me, it was simply an honor to be in that space and try to comprehend the vastness of the operation. My tour retraced the landings at Omaha (seen here) and Utah Beaches, and other pivotal locations of airborne and naval activities in Normandy.


I never understood how thick and dangerous the Normandy farmland hedgerows can be, as the Allies crept through this area under constant sniper fire. We spent time in many of the key adjacent towns that were recaptured during those grueling first three months, and lingered at the manicured Normandy American Cemetery at Colleville-Sur-Mer, where close to 9,000 rest. In all, the tour was a 10-hour indoctrination that provided much to consider.

A TAPESTRY
Back in Bayeux, there's a lot to see in the only city in northern France that was not leveled during the liberation. This city dates back to Roman occupation, but took its "current" style only a millennium ago, during the residency of its Duke, who became William the Conquerer. The embroidered scroll that chronicles events leading to the Battle of Hastings is lengthy enough to stretch completely around the interior of the massive cathedral pictured here, which in itself is quite a monument.


I enjoyed the museum now dedicated to displaying the Tapestry, as the entire work is open end-to-end, with commentary at each of the embroidered panels designed to enhance the illusion of animation. The town itself is fun to meander through. Its narrow, cobblestone streets reveal little pockets of French medieval history via landmark plaques. The city's tourist office provides a "treasure" map, allowing historical discoveries as you make your way through the winding city streets. As the weather has been typically balmy, there's been much walking and many discoveries.

I've had a good time trying to communicate in my fractured French. Everyone seems to be affable and forgiving, at least until my back is turned. I certainly have managed to be well-fed, despite my cow-dairy intolerance. Tough to do in a country whose national symbol is butter. It should be much easier in the weeks ahead, where olive oil is king, and mozzarella cheese can be a water buffalo product.

So now, I'm changing to the Italy guide book, anticipating three weeks in The Boot. Bring on the pizza.

Location:En route to Paris